- This article is about belaying as it relates to climbing, for the nautical term describing the act of making a line fast to a fixed object, see cleat
In nautical contexts, a cleat is a device attaching a rope. The traditional design is attached to a flat surface and features two “horns” extending parallel to the deck.Other cleat designs include the following....
, belaying pinA belaying pin is a device used on traditional sailing vessels to secure lines. Their function on modern vessels has been replaced by cleats, but they are still used, particularly on square rigged ships....
, bollardA bollard is a short, often vicious, vertical post. Originally it meant only a post used on a quay for mooring. The word now also describes a variety of structures to control, direct or show road traffic, such as posts arranged in a line to obstruct the passage of motor vehicles.The term may be...
, or mooring.
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Belaying refers to a variety of techniques used in
climbingClimbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
to exert
frictionFriction is the force resisting the relative lateral motion of solid surfaces, fluid layers, or material elements in contact. It is usually subdivided into several varieties:...
on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. While this task is typically assigned to a
belayer, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique.
- This article is about belaying as it relates to climbing, for the nautical term describing the act of making a line fast to a fixed object, see cleat
In nautical contexts, a cleat is a device attaching a rope. The traditional design is attached to a flat surface and features two “horns” extending parallel to the deck.Other cleat designs include the following....
, belaying pinA belaying pin is a device used on traditional sailing vessels to secure lines. Their function on modern vessels has been replaced by cleats, but they are still used, particularly on square rigged ships....
, bollardA bollard is a short, often vicious, vertical post. Originally it meant only a post used on a quay for mooring. The word now also describes a variety of structures to control, direct or show road traffic, such as posts arranged in a line to obstruct the passage of motor vehicles.The term may be...
, or mooring.
thumb
Belaying refers to a variety of techniques used in
climbingClimbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
to exert
frictionFriction is the force resisting the relative lateral motion of solid surfaces, fluid layers, or material elements in contact. It is usually subdivided into several varieties:...
on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. While this task is typically assigned to a
belayer, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique. The term
belay is also used to mean the place where the belayer is anchored; this would typically be a ledge, but may instead be a
hanging belay, where the belayer is suspended from anchors in the rock.
The person climbing is said to be
on belay when one of these belaying methods is being used. Belaying is a critical part of the climbing system. By using a correct belaying method, the belayer can hold the entire weight of the climber by using relatively little force, and can easily arrest even a long fall. By using a mixture of belaying angle and hand-grip on the rope, a climber can be lowered gently by the belayer to a safe point where climbing can be resumed.
Control of the rope is achieved through applying friction, which allows control of the speed at which the rope slides past the belayer. This friction is generally achieved by use some type of
belay deviceBelay devices are mechanical pieces of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. They are designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily...
which forces the rope through tight bends and against friction-producing surfaces. Usually either one thick rope (about 11mm) or two thinner ropes (about 9mm) in parallel are used; both systems have their advantages in different situations.
Belayer responsibilities
As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must remove the slack from the rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, then they will free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before friction applied by the belayer will start to slow their descent. It is extremely important for the belayer to concentrate on the climber's situation, as their role is crucial for the climber's safety.
Communication
Communication is also extremely important in belaying.
Climbers should wait for a verbal confirmation from the belayer that they are ready to begin. Usually the climber will ask "
On Belay?" or "
Belay?" and wait for the belayer to reply "
Belay On". Once ready, the climber then follows with a "
Climb Ready" or "
Climbing". This is usually acknowledged by the belayer saying "
Climb On."
During the climb, the climber may ask the belayer for "
Slack", "
Tension", warn of a "
Rock!" or that they are about to be "
Falling!".
At the top of the climb, the climber may elect to climb back down, be lowered down, walk back down, or set up a new belay point for another pitch. Whatever they choose to do, it must be made clear to the belayer. When the climber is in a safe position independent of the belay they will call "
Off belay".
Silent belay communication is possible via tugging the rope. Though it is much more difficult, it may be necessary in storm weather. Some people use walkie talkies in areas where communication is limited.
Anchoring
When belaying for a partner who is significantly heavier, it is advisable for the belayer to create an anchor point for him- or herself before allowing the climber to lead a route. This will not prevent a fall but will prevent the falling climber from counter-balancing the belayer during a fall and causing a "take off" where the belayer is launched into the air or towards the rock.
To set up the anchor, the belayer should insert a relevant piece of protection (i.e. a nut or sling) into a crack below his or her body or around a nearby tree. The anchor will arrest any upward force produced during a fall, thus preventing the belayer from "taking off".
Unlike belays set up at the top of a climb, it is not usually necessary for belayers at the bottom to have more than one point of protection as long as the single piece is sturdy and safe - "bomb proof", as it were.
Belay methods
Climbers now almost exclusively use a
Belay Device to achieve controllable rope friction. Before the invention of these devices, climbers used other belay methods, which are still useful in emergencies.
Belay devices
A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that improves belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Belay devices are designed to allow a weak person to easily arrest a climber's fall with maximum control, while avoiding twisting, heating or severely bending the rope.
Munter hitch
A munter hitch is a method of belaying which creates a friction brake by tying a special knot around an appropriate
carabinerA carabiner or karabiner is a metal loop with a sprung or screwed gate. The loop part opposite the gate is referred to as the spine. It can quickly and reversibly connect components in safety-critical systems...
. This type of belay, however, causes the rope to become twisted. It can also be used on double ropes, simply tie the munter hitch with the two ropes as if they were one.
Hip belay
Historically, belaying in climbing meant simply that the belayer would take a wrap of rope around his or her waist; friction between rope and the belayer's body was used to arrest a fall. This technique, known as the
hip belay, is still sometimes used by climbers needing to move quickly on low-angle terrain, but on vertical rock it is no longer used as it is less reliable and more apt to injure the belayer stopping a long fall.
See also
- Belay device
Belay devices are mechanical pieces of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. They are designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily...
- Climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands and feet to ascend a steep object. It is done both for recreation and professionally, as part of activities such as maintenance of a structure, or military operations.Climbing activities include:* Bouldering: Ascending boulders or small...
- Munter hitch
The Munter hitch, also known as the Italia hitch, is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system....
- Capstan equation
The capstan equation or the capstan friction equation relates the hold-force to the load-force if a flexible line is wound around a cylinder . It is important that the line is not rigid, in which case a lot of force is lost only to have the line fit tightly around the cylinder...