Abi Gamin
Encyclopedia
Abi Gamin is a Himalayan
mountain peak situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand
state in India
, 2 km (1.2 mi) northeast of Kamet
. It lies on the northern border of Chamoli district
, where India
meets Tibet
.
Abi Gamin is located in the central Himalayas and at the culminating point of the Zaskar Range. It is situated on the watershed of the upper Alaknanda and Dhauli rivers between the famous Manna and Niti passes on the Indo-Tibetan border.
Abi Gamin is the second highest peak in the immediate region, after Kamet. It is also one of the fifteen seven thousand metre peaks of Uttarakhand, and as such it is a significant peak. However it is not particularly independent, lying as it does close to the higher peak of Kamet, and separated from it by the high saddle known as Meade's Col, 7,138 m (23,419 ft).
Abi Gamin was surveyed (along with the rest of the group) by Richard Strachey in 1848; this was the first time that the great heights of these peaks was recognized.
In 1855, the Schlagintweit brothers named this range as Western, Central and Eastern Abi Gamin. These correspond to Mukut Parbat, Kamet and Abi Gamin.
During the 1874-77 survey by the Survey of India under E. C. Ryall, I. S. Pocock set up a plane table at c.22050' on the West flank of Abi Gamin.
Between 1907 and 1913 a number of expeditions attempting Kamet
reached high altitudes on the flanks of this mountain. Thomas George Longstaff
in 1907 recced the Purbi(East) Kamet approaches, and C.F.Meade's
team followed the same route in 1913 to reach Meade's Col up the East flank of the massif. The attempts by A.M.Slingsby in 1911 and 1913 and C.F.Meade
in 1912 were up the West flank from the Pachhmi(West) Kamet glacier. These reached Slingsby's Col(c.21000') between Mukut Parbat and Abi Gamin, but failed to go beyond c.23000'.
Abi Gamin was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a small Anglo
-Swiss
Expedition comprising Alfred Tissierès, R. Dittert, and G. Chevalley (all Swiss), and Englishman Kenneth Berrill
. They approached from the north side through Tibet, reached over the Mana Pass
. Their NE ridge route was the same route the Schlagintweit's had tried nearly a century earlier! The summit was reached by the three Swiss members: they may have been accompanied by Sherpa Dawa Thondup.
Indian expeditions under Nandu Jayal climbed the peak in 1953 and 1955 by the SW ridge from Meade's Col, reached up the East flank of the massif from the Purbi Kamet glacier. Later ascents have been up this route.
First Youngest- Indian Expedition On June 8, 1988 Abi Gamin was successfully climbed by Govind Joshi , a 17 years old climber. Became the first youngest ever to scale difficult Mt. Abi Gamin who being completely raw in mountaineering field and climbed the peak without using any oxygen aid . This expedition of Ramjas Old Student Adventure Association ( ROSAA ),New Delhi led by C. S. Pandey, went on expedition to Mt. Kamet and Abi Gamin without a trained doctor and tried the bold experiment to stuck only to vegetarian food throughout the expedition and came back successfully.
and Mana
. All three peaks are linked by a ridge.
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
mountain peak situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand
Uttarakhand
Uttarakhand , formerly Uttaranchal, is a state in the northern part of India. It is often referred to as the Land of Gods due to the many holy Hindu temples and cities found throughout the state, some of which are among Hinduism's most spiritual and auspicious places of pilgrimage and worship...
state in India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...
, 2 km (1.2 mi) northeast of Kamet
Kamet
Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand, close to the border with Tibet. It is the third highest mountain in India Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi....
. It lies on the northern border of Chamoli district
Chamoli District
Chamoli district is a district of Uttarakhand state of India. It is bounded by the Tibet region to the north, and by the Uttarakhand districts of Pithoragarh and Bageshwar to the east, Almora to the south, Garhwal to the southwest, Rudraprayag to the west, and Uttarkashi to the northwest...
, where India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...
meets Tibet
Tibet
Tibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...
.
Abi Gamin is located in the central Himalayas and at the culminating point of the Zaskar Range. It is situated on the watershed of the upper Alaknanda and Dhauli rivers between the famous Manna and Niti passes on the Indo-Tibetan border.
Abi Gamin is the second highest peak in the immediate region, after Kamet. It is also one of the fifteen seven thousand metre peaks of Uttarakhand, and as such it is a significant peak. However it is not particularly independent, lying as it does close to the higher peak of Kamet, and separated from it by the high saddle known as Meade's Col, 7,138 m (23,419 ft).
Abi Gamin was surveyed (along with the rest of the group) by Richard Strachey in 1848; this was the first time that the great heights of these peaks was recognized.
In 1855, the Schlagintweit brothers named this range as Western, Central and Eastern Abi Gamin. These correspond to Mukut Parbat, Kamet and Abi Gamin.
Climbing history
The first attempt to climb the peak was launched by the Schlagintweits from the Tibetan side up the NE ridge : they estimated that they reached an altitude of 22000'.During the 1874-77 survey by the Survey of India under E. C. Ryall, I. S. Pocock set up a plane table at c.22050' on the West flank of Abi Gamin.
Between 1907 and 1913 a number of expeditions attempting Kamet
Kamet
Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand, close to the border with Tibet. It is the third highest mountain in India Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi....
reached high altitudes on the flanks of this mountain. Thomas George Longstaff
Thomas George Longstaff
Tom George Longstaff was an English doctor, explorer and mountaineer, most famous for being the first person to climb a summit of over 7,000 meters in elevation, Trisul, in the Indian Himalaya in 1907. He also made important explorations and climbs in Tibet, Nepal, the Karakoram, Spitsbergen,...
in 1907 recced the Purbi(East) Kamet approaches, and C.F.Meade's
Charles Francis Meade
Charles Francis Meade was an English mountaineer and author.-Origins:Born in England , Meade was the only surviving child of the Hon. Sir Robert Henry Meade and Caroline Georgiana Grenfell...
team followed the same route in 1913 to reach Meade's Col up the East flank of the massif. The attempts by A.M.Slingsby in 1911 and 1913 and C.F.Meade
Charles Francis Meade
Charles Francis Meade was an English mountaineer and author.-Origins:Born in England , Meade was the only surviving child of the Hon. Sir Robert Henry Meade and Caroline Georgiana Grenfell...
in 1912 were up the West flank from the Pachhmi(West) Kamet glacier. These reached Slingsby's Col(c.21000') between Mukut Parbat and Abi Gamin, but failed to go beyond c.23000'.
Abi Gamin was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a small Anglo
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern IrelandIn the United Kingdom and Dependencies, other languages have been officially recognised as legitimate autochthonous languages under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages...
-Swiss
Switzerland
Switzerland name of one of the Swiss cantons. ; ; ; or ), in its full name the Swiss Confederation , is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, with Bern as the seat of the federal authorities. The country is situated in Western Europe,Or Central Europe depending on the definition....
Expedition comprising Alfred Tissierès, R. Dittert, and G. Chevalley (all Swiss), and Englishman Kenneth Berrill
Kenneth Berrill
Sir Kenneth Berrill, GBE, KCB, was an English economist and public servant.Throughout his career, he held a number of posts including head of the Central Policy Review Staff from 1974 to 1980 and the chairmanship of the Securities and Investments Board until 1988....
. They approached from the north side through Tibet, reached over the Mana Pass
Mana Pass
Mana Pass , alternatively as Māna La, Chirbitya, Chirbitya-la, or Dungri La is a mountain pass in the Himalayas between India and Tibet...
. Their NE ridge route was the same route the Schlagintweit's had tried nearly a century earlier! The summit was reached by the three Swiss members: they may have been accompanied by Sherpa Dawa Thondup.
Indian expeditions under Nandu Jayal climbed the peak in 1953 and 1955 by the SW ridge from Meade's Col, reached up the East flank of the massif from the Purbi Kamet glacier. Later ascents have been up this route.
First Youngest- Indian Expedition On June 8, 1988 Abi Gamin was successfully climbed by Govind Joshi , a 17 years old climber. Became the first youngest ever to scale difficult Mt. Abi Gamin who being completely raw in mountaineering field and climbed the peak without using any oxygen aid . This expedition of Ramjas Old Student Adventure Association ( ROSAA ),New Delhi led by C. S. Pandey, went on expedition to Mt. Kamet and Abi Gamin without a trained doctor and tried the bold experiment to stuck only to vegetarian food throughout the expedition and came back successfully.
Neighbouring Peaks
Mukut Parbat, KametKamet
Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand, close to the border with Tibet. It is the third highest mountain in India Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of India, after Nanda Devi....
and Mana
Mana
Mana is an indigenous Pacific islander concept of an impersonal force or quality that resides in people, animals, and inanimate objects. The word is a cognate in many Oceanic languages, including Melanesian, Polynesian, and Micronesian....
. All three peaks are linked by a ridge.
Trek
Joshimath (Chamoli)--Markari-Nitti-Sapukaharak-Nand-Kharak-BC-CI-CII-CIII and CIV then summit.Routes
- NE Ridge (by Mana pass and Mang Gang glacier).
- Purbi Kamet glacier, Meade's col, South face or SW ridge.
- North West Ridge.